FAQs: How to Lace Dress Shoes the Right Way

Lacing dress shoes may seem simple, but the method you use can affect comfort, appearance, and even professionalism. Whether you're heading to the office or a formal event, properly laced shoes make a big difference in your overall look.

Let’s break down the most common methods, dos and don’ts, and how to get it just right.

Q1: Is there a “correct” way to lace dress shoes?

A: Yes—straight bar lacing is considered the most formal and aesthetically pleasing method for oxfords, derbies, and other classic dress shoes. It gives a clean, symmetrical appearance and hides the underlying crisscrossed laces.

Q2: What is straight bar lacing (European lacing)?

Straight bar lacing creates horizontal lines across the top of the shoe. The laces are hidden underneath, resulting in a neat and professional look.

Q3: How do I lace dress shoes using straight bar lacing?

You’ll need:

• A pair of dress shoes with 5–6 eyelets on each side

• Flat or round waxed laces (recommended for dress shoes)

Steps:

1. Start from the bottom (toe end):
   Insert both lace ends straight through the bottom eyelets from the outside in so you have a bar across the bottom. Make sure both ends are even.

2. Take the left lace and skip one eyelet going upward inside the shoe, then bring it out and across to the right side, going into the eyelet directly across.

3. Now take the right lace, thread it up through the next unused eyelet (from underneath), then straight across to the left side.

4. Repeat this pattern until you reach the top of the shoe.

5. Tie your laces as usual or tuck them under for a hidden look.

Q4: Can I use criss-cross lacing on dress shoes?

A: You can, especially if comfort is a bigger priority than looks. Criss-cross lacing gives more flexibility and can help relieve pressure on the instep. It’s more common on derby shoes (with open lacing) than oxfords (closed lacing), where bar lacing is preferred.

Q5: What kind of laces should I use for dress shoes?

• Use round or flat waxed cotton laces in a color that matches or complements your shoe.

• Avoid athletic or thick laces—they look out of place on formal footwear.

Q6: My shoes don’t stay tight—what should I do?

Try using a “lock” technique at the top of the lacing, or switch to criss-cross lacing if your feet need more support. If your shoes are still loose, it could be a sizing issue or the leather needs to be broken in.

Q7: Can I tuck in the laces for a cleaner look?

A: Yes. Some people prefer to tuck the tied lace bow under the tongue or hide it beneath the facing for a sleeker finish—especially if wearing a tuxedo or suit.

Q8: Final thoughts – What’s the best way to lace my dress shoes?

• For oxfords or formal occasions, go with straight bar lacing.

• For comfort or casual use, criss-cross is perfectly fine—especially with derby-style shoes.

• Always keep laces clean and proportionate in length.